Hi, Alan Stratton, from As Wood Turns (www.AsWoodTurns.com)
In the last video, I made this handle for a pigtail barbecue turner, flipper actually,
and I incorporated a Celtic knot. I’m going to use the Keltic pronunciation from now on.
I realize that that may still offend some people but “C’est la Vie!”.
Several suggestions came back that I not cut completely thru the wood, that I lower the
sawblade just a little bit to leave a bit of wood to maintain the distance and that
would improve the knot. I’m going to try that out on this project. At the same time,
Michael suggested that I try to do a three way Celtic knot. Okay, Michael, challenge
taken. So here is a three way Celtic knot. It’s a little bit different. I had to jig
up a little bit different way and I did not cut completely thru. I think it’s successful.
Now, this was a four way—this is a three way. Now, If you want to do a five or six
way, just to prove it can be done and see what the differences are, I’ll do that if
there are enough comments down below this video.
So, if you want to see a five or six way lobe, Celtic knot, let me know. If there are enough,
then I’ll do it. The same process that I used for this three
way can be used, I think, for any number of loops in a Celtic knot.
Let’s go for it. Let’s make a Celtic knot…. What is this? Well, it actually is for back
pain that you can rub on somebody’s back – on the flat; massage out a knot with the
big end; if it needs more specialized pressure, massage out the knot with the small end.
So let’s make relief for your back pain. I believe the key to accurately cutting the
slices for this three loop Keltic knot to be positioning the wood’s rotation. For
square stock, this means simply milling the wood to a perfect square. For a three loop,
I could have milled the wood to a triangle but that’s a lot of work and error prone.
My solution is to cut a pair of triangles with two critical characteristics. They are
(1) large enough for my square stock to fit inside the triangle while (2) the center of
the triangle corresponds to the center of the wood. So the first step is to draw a pair
of triangles – I used Powerpoint to make patterns; glued the paper to a piece of plywood;
and rough cut the plywood a little bit large. Next, sand the wood to the pattern. I took
a class from a patternmaker who could reproduce almost any part with a master pattern, a knife,
bandsaw, and sander. Gary could sand to the middle of a knife mark. I found that much
more accurate than trying to measure and cut with a saw.
Next with a hole in the triangle’s middle and holes at the center of the timber’ ends,
I aligned the middle of the triangle to the middle of the wood with a nail, then used
hot melt glue to fasten everything together. Much easier to build up just the end of the
wood with the plywood than to mill a large hunk of cherry that would mostly wind up as
shavings on the floor. I have a sliding miter table that has proved
mostly useless. I finally found a good use for it with this project. I set the saw cut
for 30 degrees and the depth to be just a little less than the thickness of the wood.
For insurance, I CA glued another piece of plywood to the upper side to stiffen the wood
despite the saw kerf. After the next gluing step the CA easily sheared off. I wanted the
timber to be long enough to safely cut and handle. With this much wood, I can try to
get two back pain tools from this piece. I milled my walnut inserts to just fit the
saw kerf. I coated the surfaces with Titebond Original Extend and did my best to get glue
inside the saw kerf. The disadvantage of this method is the risk of inadequate glue inside
the kerf. I used the insert to try to get glue to the inside. It was not time to skimp
on glue. Now for the second cut. Again set the cut
depth to leave some wood holding everything together. Again, I decided to reinforce the
wood with some plywood. This time for the glue up, I pre-shaped the
walnut pieces. They’re somewhat odd shaped. The problem is they only go in one way and
I got mixed up between the four corners and two sides. By the time I found the right combination,
I figured I had a good coating of glue inside the kerf.
The third cut is a lot like the others. Set the saw depth and reinforce the side of the
wood with some plywood. This time for the glue up, I labeled the walnut
sides to keep things straight. To help spread glue I used a craft stick thinner than the
saw kerf. For this project the hard part is finished.
Now, I’ve mounted the wood between centers using the holes I drilled earlier to align
the plywood triangles. Now on to standard roughing out. Next I marked the center. Here
I’ll cut a mortise that will hold the two ends into a chuck. Then cut them apart.
Now with one half mounted to the lathe, the actual shape is a simple taper – If ever
tapers were simple. The pattern for this back tool was one I saw at a gem show. Theirs was
a little longer; One large end one small end. In use, it can be rolled on the long side
or either end used to work a particularly knotted muscle.
Then sand it up thru the grits and finish with beeswax and mineral oil. I sanded the
wax oil mix into the wood with 400 grit sandpaper. Finally, a quick buff with my Beall Buffing
System. I’m liking what it does to my projects. Ok, Michael, I took your challenge and made
this three loop Keltic knot. And I think this process can be used for any number of loops.
So if you want me to make a five or six loop Keltic knot, write your wishes in a comment
below this video. If there’s enough, I’ll do it. A steeper cut angle is the only other
adjustment indicated. That’s all for this week’s video. Please
“Like” this video. If you haven’t subscribed, please subscribe to both my website and YouTube
channel. Always wear your full face shield –goggles are not enough. Until next time,
this is Alan Stratton from As Wood Turns dot com.